A woman who cuts her hair is about to change her life.
– Coco Channel
The outermost layer of the human scalp, known as the stratum corneum, is coated with lipids primarily secreted by sebaceous glands. This lipid mixture that envelops the scalp functions as a protective barrier against dehydration. While shampooing does remove these lipids, fortunately, the scalp begins the process of replenishing them shortly thereafter (Murphey, 2022). The production of lipids on the scalp gradually peaks in less than 12 hours.
How does our hair get greasy?
Hair follicles pick up oil from the scalp until they are fully saturated. However, lipids do not migrate along the hair follicles, especially when they are coiled. Nevertheless, terminal hairs can absorb oil from surrounding follicles. This is why hair emollients, commonly referred to as grease or hair oils within the African American community, are recommended. Applying emollients to the hair enhances the transmission of oils from hair to hair or hair to the scalp (Eberhardt, 1976).
Therefore, the external application of hair grease after shampooing is a practice that benefits African and African American women in maintaining healthy hair and scalp (Fluhr, 2008). However, if the scalp naturally produces emollients that nourish and protect our hair, then it is reasonable to assume that the external application of oils is complementary but not always necessary.
Is too much oil damaging to the hair?
Regardless of individual preferences regarding the use of emollients, it’s important to recognize that excessive use can have detrimental effects. A study on the scalp microbiome has revealed that Malassezia sp., which are lipophilic yeasts, constitute approximately 70% of the normal skin flora. While Malassezia sp. are generally considered commensal, some have been associated with dandruff (Saxena, 2018).
These lipophilic yeasts are thought to break down sebaceous triglycerides, producing free fatty acids, such as oleic acid. These free fatty acids can penetrate the stratum corneum and disrupt the skin’s surface lipid film (Grimalt, 2007), leading to typical symptoms. Excessively applying oil to your scalp and hair can consequently lead to dandruff and other related conditions.
Although the use of emollients can be beneficial for maintaining healthy hair, it’s crucial to understand that excessive use can be harmful. Furthermore, whether you are aware of it or not, your scalp naturally produces oil to protect your hair. In simpler terms, the body is inherently equipped to protect and heal itself without external assistance, although external aid can be beneficial.
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